THE 10 COMMANDMENTS OF CURLY HAIR

1- Thou shalt shampoo less and condition more. 

Bottom line- shampoo the least amount possible. On non-shampoo days rinse hair thoroughly with warm water and massage the scalp with the pads of your fingers to loosen oil and dirt. Then saturate the mid-shafts and ends with high quality smoothing conditioner.

2- Thou shalt only use Sulfate-Free shampoo.

Sulfate is just a fancy word for 'salt'- enough said. Invest in high quality products if you want high quality results.

3-Thou shalt deep condition once per week.

4-Thou shalt avoid muss-drying hair with terry cloth towels.

Instead use a micro fiber shammy, an old cotton T-shirt, or cut up a soft cotton/flannel bed sheet (that one is my favorite). Squeeze out excess water in downward motions from root to tip- this keeps the cuticle closed and smooth.

5-Thou shalt sleep on a silk pillowcase every night.

6-Thou shalt trim your hair every 8-10 weeks.

7-Thou shalt only use a wide tooth comb or fingers to detangle wet hair.

8-Thou shalt apply curl enhancing products to damp hair... scrunch or defuse- 

then it's HANDS OFF!

Once you've applied your product and set your style, avoid touching your hair for the rest of the day. The more you touch- the more you'll frizz and poof.

9-Thou shalt avoid heat tools as much as possible.

Curly hair is naturally more dry- so keep heat exposure to a minimum. When you must use heat always apply a thermal protectant spray first

10-Thou shalt love thy curls and embrace your unique look.

My curl product picks: Deva Curl Low-Poo Shampoo and One Conditioner

Moroccan Oil Treatment Oil (enter 'Moore Hair Design' as your salon referral to purchase)

Miss Jessie's Curl Pudding Styling Cream

Miss Jessie's Creme de la Creme Conditioner

SachaJuan Ocean Spray

Betty Dain Satin Pillowcase

Monoi Split End Sealer

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5 WAYS TO UPDATE YOUR LOOK WITHOUT A TRIP TO THE SALON

There comes a time in every woman's life where she just feels 'blah'. You know what I'm talking about; you're bored with your look but you're not ready to make a major change. Well here are a few ways to update your hairstyle without a trip to the salon. Step away from the scissors!

Switch up your part line

Seems too simple to be true, but this is one of the most effective ways to update your style. For proof check out my post on

partings

. If you don't have major cowlicks or a widows peak try a center part. It will open up your face and make your eyes a standout feature. Just be sure you give yourself lots of volume in the crown so you don't look too 70's. If you wear a side part, try flipping it to the other side. This often causes the hair to fall more forward onto the face giving a swoopy-bang effect across the forehead. Or try an ubber-exaggerated side part just a few inches above one ear. This looks great with a low sleek ponytail and feels much more 'formal'.

Roll the opposite direction

If you normally wear your hair curled under- do an 'about face' and roll your hair outward. By simply rolling your round brush in the opposite direction, you'll get drastically different results. Your layers will lie differently and you may look like you have a completely new haircut. And of course, if you already wear your hair flipped outward- switch to an under roll for a softer bouncy look. Same goes for your curling iron looks... Wrap the hair around your iron away from the face to get a beachy look, and wrap hair towards the face for a vintage wave look.

Wear your natural texture

It may have been some time since you let your hair air-dry or even used a diffuser to enhance your natural curl. But there is no time like the present to start embracing a less-fuss look. Luckily for you, a more 'natural' look is in style these days, and people are no longer trying to straighten their hair into oblivion. Try a soft wearing curl cream, (I love PUREOLOGY Illuminating Curl) and twist your hair away from the face in 2-inch sections. Then it's HANDS OFF! Let the hair air dry and embrace your natural curl.

Bust out the old hot rollers

You remember those old things right? It's time to re-visit the hot roller but in an updated way of course. For a beachy wave, use 1.5-2 inch rollers. (These are my fave 

Remington T Studio Ceramic Pearl

 Rollers) Place the roller in at the scalp and wrap a 2 inch section of hair around the outside of the roller. Hold the ends firm while wrapping, which will cause the strand to twist as you go. (Instead of the traditional roll where you place the roller at the ends and roll up towards the scalp.) Let the curl set and release, finger through the waves and finish with a setting spray.

Opt for an updo

If you are a pony-tail kind of girl, try dressing up your locks by adding a braid or a twist. There is lots of inspiration on our pinterest board

here

. Or make it sleek and go for a polished wet-look pony by smoothing strands with a boar-bristle brush and finishing with lots of lacquer. Try a side style like a loose messy fishtail braid or a low side-chignon (fancy french work for bun) Side styles look more polished than a traditional center style, but they add more interest and are super easy to do.

Give these tips a try and get yourself out of that hair rut!

5 THINGS YOU SHOULD NEVER DO WHEN WASHING YOUR HAIR

You have probably done it a million times... or darn near close to a million times- shampoo your hair, that is.

Next time you are in the shower, remember these rules- your hair will thank you for it!

1- Never wet your hair before brushing out the tangles.

Wet hair stretches, knots and breaks. Dry hair is much stronger and releases from tangles better. So avoid breakage by pre-treating your hair to a good ol' brush-out before the shower. (This stimulates your scalp and encourage blood flow too... double bonus!)

2- Never apply shampoo until you've loosened up your scalp

and thoroughly saturated your hair with water. Go ahead and get in there with the pads of your fingers (not your finger nails) and vigorously massage the scalp. Not only does it feel good, but it loosens up the oils and buildup on your scalp so that the shampoo can lift away the buildup and carry it down the drain.

3- Never apply shampoo to the ends of your hair.

Shampoo is designed to clean the scalp and roots of hair where natural oils buildup. The mid-shaft and ends of the hair will get cleaned by default as the shampoo is rinsed out, so focus on the roots and avoid drying out the ends with excess cleansing.

4- Never apply conditioner to the roots of your hair.

Conditioner is designed to rebuild the moisture in your hair that is lost with heat styling etc. However the natural oils from your scalp will do the job at the roots, so focus the conditioner from the mid-shaft down and you'll get a lasting style with more volume.

5- Never wash hair with hot, hot water.

Think of your hair as fabric, let's say it's your favorite shirt... Now imagine what would happen to your shirt if you washed it with harsh detergent and HOT water every single day. The shirt would fade, loose it's shape, and loose it's luster- right? These principles apply to your hair as well- cooler water and higher quality shampoo will protect the color and luster much longer.

*Bonus-

Never use a towel to muss-dry your hair. You know what I'm talking about... quickly rubbing the towel in back-and-forth or in circular motions to remove moisture. This type of drying just causes breakage and knotting- so don't do it! Gently squeeze excess water out in downward motions to keep the hair cuticle going in the downward (closed) position. This will lead to shinier and healthier hair.

Here is to your best hair health!

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BANGS 101

One of the most often-asked questions I get as a hair stylist is; 'What do you think about bangs?' This is usually followed by- 'I am scared'... 'not sure' and... 'I haven't had bangs since I was a child'. 

If you have ever wondered about bangs (or fringe, as some called it) then take a minute to study my bang curriculum, Bangs 101.

Who is a good candidate for bangs?

- Someone who enjoys styling their hair and often spends upwards of 20 minutes on their style daily.

-Someone who is free from major cowlicks on the hairline and who has at least 3 fingers widths (horizontally) between the eyebrows and hairline

-Someone with straight to slightly wavy hair that can quite easily be straightened

-Someone who has normal to heavy density hair and good scalp coverage

-Some who gets regular haircuts about every 6 weeks

Who is a bad candidate for bangs?

-Someone who only washes their hair 1-2 days per week and does not spend more than 20 minutes per day styling.

-Someone with strong cowlicks, a deep widows peak, or a strong natural parting at the hairline

-Someone with a very 'short' forehead; less than 3 finger widths between hairline and eyebrows

-Someone with very curly hair

-Someone with very fine density hair where the scalp is visible

-Someone who only gets haircuts 1-2 times per year

What type of bang is best for my face shape?

While there is variation with each candidate, consider the following guidelines:

Square face - side swept with soft texture at ends, with a rounder finish shape

Round face - light piecey bang that splits to both sides above one eyebrow

Longer face- full fringe with a blunter texture on perimeter over eyebrows

Things to remember:

*Your haircut should help dictate the type of bangs you have- for example; a long-layered bouncy style would not pair well with a choppy piecey bang. They aren't cohesive and it looks like two styles fighting each other. Stick with a cohesive theme

*Work with your natural partings and growth patterns. Trying to fight them only leads to frustration so embrace your hairs' natural tendencies and pick a bang style that is complimentary

*Bangs should be blown dry first when styling so they don't have a chance to go wayward

*Avoid using too much styling product on bangs- they will fall flat and look greasy by midday

*Avoid touching your bangs with your hands throughout the day- again greasy is not good

*Schedule a bang trim halfway in between your haircut appointments. Most salons offer a free bang trim and you'll avoid cutting them yourself if you know you've got an upcoming appointment already on the books

*Be sure you are committed before you take the plunge- growing out bangs can be tedious, so be sure it's a look you want to wear for at least 6 months

Class dismissed!

7 WAYS TO BE A BLOWDRY NINJA

If there is one thing that makes the salon experience heaven on earth... it's the shampoo massage at the bowl. (even I can't deny that!) BUT the next best thing is a professional blowdry that leaves your hair bouncy and smooth for days.

To get the same results at home, you need to grow an extra pair of arms-

Since that may not be an option, let's look at the 7 ways you can become a blowdry ninja at home.

1-

It starts in the shower

. Make sure your hair is clean by shampooing twice at the scalp only. The rest of the hair will get clean by default, so focus on the roots and really get in there and loosen the scalp. Clean hair is bouncy hair! Next finish with conditioner on the mid-shaft to ends- avoid the scalp and focus on the dry/damaged areas.

2-

Next up- the towel

. I recommend a

cotton turkish towel

versus your traditional terry cloth version. A pure cotton will absorb just as much water and the smoother texture won't roughen up the cuticle of your hair as much, making less work for you when styling. Leave the towel on for 10 minutes while you get dressed etc followed by 10 minutes of air dry time.

3-

Apply the proper styling products

- follow my prescription for the correct order

here

4-

Blow out the curliest parts of your hair first

- this usually includes the bangs, temple area, and nape of the neck. These places that have more wave will need to be bone dry to maintain their shape without reverting back to curl or frizz. Section off a circle around the crown of your head (imagine placing a cereal bowl on your head- the hair under the bowl should be clipped out of the way, and the outer circle is left down), using the nozzle on your dryer blow in a downward (meaning

with

the direction of the cuticle) air stream. Work through the remaining sections finishing with the crown for the most volume.

5-

Use the correct brush

. If you have lots of curl or frizz you need a round brush with stiff natural bristles that will give plenty of tension on the hair as you pull it through. The larger the diameter the straighter the finished style will be- smaller barrels will give more curl or flip to the look. If your hair is mostly straight you can work with a flat paddle/cushion brush or a round brush depending on your preference. Remember you want tension, but not breakage so be sure your hair is tangle free first.

6- Again,

focus on the roots

. The key to a style that lasts and has volume is all in the roots. Make sure they are bone dry before moving on to the next section. The ends will dry by default since they are whipping around in the wind and they let go of moisture much more quickly. Come back to the ends to smooth and direct them only after the roots are finished. You can set the roots at the crown for volume on top by leaving the round brush in at the roots for a few minutes while the hair cools- or blast it with cool air for about 30 seconds.

7-

Use the wrapping technique

. Think of your head as an ironing board that you can lay your hair against as you brush and flatten the hair on. The best way to do this is to over-direct the hair in the opposite direction than it naturally lays, and smooth the brush over it while blowing the air. For example, take the hair by your right ear and wrap it up and over the top of your head- now you have a surface to press the brush against while you brush. Make sense? You've probably done this before without even knowing it, when you flip your head upside down and brush the underside of your hair towards the crown of your head while drying.

Finish with a quick curl or flat iron, but hopefully you won't need much more work after following the above procedure. And of course keep your look fresh by applying dry shampoo on day two.

I hope these kung-foo tricks help you achieve your perfect blowout at home!

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THE RIGHT WAY TO APPLY HAIR PRODUCTS

Turns out there's a rhyme AND a reason to the way stylists apply hair products...

Follow the above order when applying your products and your styling results will be

that

much better. By layering the products correctly they work better and your style will last longer. On top of the tips above I would like to expand a little on my top recommendations. 

1-

Shampoo really should only be applied to the roots

- it's where the oil and dirt lie. The ends are typically drier so avoid stripping natural oils and your ends will love you for it.

2-

Blowdry creams and oils are for the ends

- rebuild lost moisture and protect from heat. Your style will last longer and keep more volume if you avoid the root areas when applying these. 

3-

Dry shampoo is a girl's best friend

- you'll shampoo less and therefor your hair will be in much better condition. 

4-

Nothing helps split ends like a trim

- products really do make a huge difference- BUT regular trims are the centerpiece to healthy looking hair. 

Here's to YOUR beautiful hair!

BRIGHTEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS WITHOUT A TRIP TO THE SALON

Although Summer brings a plethora of benefits to our lives, it is also a big contributer to lack-luster hair color and texture. When you find yourself oog-ling the shiny locks of any Victoria's Secret model- remember the biggest causes of dullness, and more importantly the steps to combat it.  

The Culprit: Build Up

Your hair is made up of a layered structure that absorbs much like a sponge.  Regular shampooing doesn't always purge the build-up found deep

within

the layers of that sponge. Pollutants like chlorine or hard water, sweat and oil, and styling aids all add to the dullness your hair experiences. This buildup creates weight on your hair causing a loss in volume and the ability to hold style, as well as a film that darkens the vibrancy of your hair color- both natural color or artificially pigmented hair color.

My recommended pureology products

to clarify and hydrate

The Solution: Clarifying Shampoo and Conditioning Masque 

Clarifying shampoos are meant to open the outer-most layer of the hair shaft- the cuticle, and remove the build up that has attached to the hair. Ingredients in these types of shampoos often include witch hazel, tea tree oil, and baking soda that gently remove dulling residues. When the hair is stripped of buildup it will behave better, hold a style longer, and overall be more vibrant. Use of these shampoos is usually recommended once every 2-3 weeks.

Follow your clarifying treatment with a moisture repair masque. This will soften the hair shaft and help to close the cuticle which gives hair a shinier appearance. Pliability will be restored and your locks will be ready for their close up! Look for ingredients like shea butter, avocado oil, and jojoba oil to restore moisture and shine. Most masques are recommended to be applied for 5-10 minutes before being rinsed thoroughly.

Here's to a fabulous Summer and radiant tresses! New here? Let's be friends on facebook